Too Short To Model? A look at beauty standards throughout history.

Written By Leyla Ucar

A Petite Perspective

Exploring the historical progression of Western women's body ideals and height, with my perspective as a published petite model fighting for diversity in the industry.

You’re too short to be a model!

Is a sentence I’ve heard way too many times.

My height - a whopping 5ft3 (5ft3 and a half if you’re feeling generous) is considered well below the ‘requirements’ for a model. Yet, after more than seven years modelling in the industry, I have defied expectations and model full-time.

When looking across the several top modelling agencies under their application page, the overwhelming majority will have a height requirement. Typically the minimum is 5ft7-5ft10, depending on the agency. Some don’t explicitly state a requirement, but when you go to select your height, the options don’t begin below 5ft6.

Statistically, the average height of a woman globally is 5ft3 (5ft4 in the UK). Given this, you would expect the modelling industry to cater to the average woman, right? In an era where body diversity is increasingly celebrated; why has the height standard not changed?

Why does a model need to be tall?

Historically, the requirements for models were not always to be tall and on the high-fashion standard thinner side. Female beauty ideals have always been dictated by trends throughout the centuries.

In the Renaissance era and art, women were seen as “muses” and “creatures of desire”, depicted often with more curvaceous bodies and soft, rounded features. This was associated with good health, maternity and wealth - a desire in thriving Renaissance Europe post Black-Death-Middle Age. “Fleshy arms and legs, broad hips and a round stomach were also all considered desirable – thinness was something of a problem in Renaissance Italy” (Roller, 2022). The beauty ideals surrounded curvaceous, and often fair women; with thinner women being viewed as poor/sick, and less desirable overall. There was no overwhelming preference for height.

Angelica Kauffmann – Ariadne Abandoned by Theseus, 1774

In the 1800s, Haute Couture pioneer Charles Frederick Worth used models of all shapes and sizes. He often used everyday people as models, as he wanted his models to look “like his best customers”. “Customers saw dresses on models that looked just as they would look on them”, Kate Havelin wrote, which would sell his clothes more. Haute “believed a 5’2” woman may have a hard time envisioning herself in a gown worn by a 5’11” model”, so he would handpick each model to mirror his consumers.

However, a shift began in the rise of Editorial photo shoots, alongside Condé Nast taking over Vogue in 1909. Models transformed from everyday girls that you could picture yourself as in catalogs, to aspirations and unattainable desires among the shiny pages of Vogue. Thinness began prioritized in the media, accompanied by the rise of the Golden Era of Hollywood. The hourglass figure, characterised by the well-defined waistline that gracefully curved into voluptuous hips and a generous bust, became the immortalised pinnacle of femininity.

Tall height hadn’t become the standard beauty ideal yet though - with many of the beloved actresses being petite. Judy Garland was 4ft11, Joan Crawford around 5ft2, Shirley Temple at 5ft2, Elizabeth Taylor at 5ft3, and Marylin Monroe at 5ft5. However, tiny waists were the trend, with Monroe often boasting her 22/23” waist. Arguably the first supermodel, Lisa Fonssagrives only stood at 5ft7 tall, but with a tiny frame and dancer composure; she landed over 200 Vogue covers in her career between the 1930s-1950s.

Lisa Fonssagrives, 1940

Marilyn Monroe, 1958

With the rise of models such as Twiggy in the 1960s/70s, body image ideals began to change again. As Debbie Miller said: “All you want is to feel attractive and now you’re told curves à la Marilyn Monroe (your only role model) are no longer sexy, but straight and angular and rakishly thin is. Years later people will refer to Monroe as fat”.

The 60s aesthetic ‘was all about a slim figure’, popularising the miniskirt to elongate the legs. Whilst Twiggy was only 5ft6, the desired shift to look ‘long’ began. A study examining changes between 1967 and 1987 found a significant increase in the height and waist measurements of female fashion models, with a trend towards less curvaceous and more tubular body shapes.

Twiggy, 1966

In comes the 1990s ‘Heroin Chic’, and the rise of the era of the supermodel. Think of the ‘big 5’ supermodels: Naomi Campbell (5ft10), Christy Turlington (5ft10), Cindy Crawford (5ft10), Linda Evangelista (5ft10), Tatjana Patitz (5ft11). Other prominent names included: Tyra Banks (5ft10), Heidi Klum (5ft9), Claudia Schiffer (5ft11ft), Kimora Lee Simmons (6ft), Shalom Harlow (5ft11), Yasmeen Ghauri (5ft10) - the list goes on.

Notice there are two things all these models have in common? They were all incredibly above the average height of a woman, and extremely thin.

The notable exception was the legendary Kate Moss, who was scouted on the streets of London at just 14 years old. Only reaching 5ft7 in adulthood, Moss was considered ‘Petite’, despite being taller than the previously beloved model Twiggy just a couple of decades previously. It’s unfortunate to see how a woman well above the average height was considered ‘too short’ for the industry.

‘Heroin Chic’ became widely desired among models, coined by the characterisation of pale skin, dark circles, and emaciated features associated with the addition of said drug. Why did excessive height become idealised alongside this? Was it because often the taller you are, the thinner you appear? My theory is that tallness became fashionable during the 90s for the pursuit of ultimate thinness.

Yasmeen Ghauri, 1990s

Thankfully, in the 2010s, the body-positive moment skyrocketed in the modelling industry, thanks to models such as Ashley Grayham. Models of all body sizes and backgrounds were starting to be seen across media and the industry. Whilst I’m ecstatic about this stride in diversity, there was (and still is) a clear gap in this diversity - petite models. Height discrimination is still alive and well.

Ashley Graham, 2023

Subconscious opinions on height

However, some opinions on height may stem from our subconscious pre-conceived assumptions. Chu and Geary’s 2005 study found that tall women were rated as more intelligent, affluent, assertive, and ambitious than shorter women. Additionally, taller men and women were ascribed with more positive personality traits than their shorter counterparts (Jackson and Ervin, 1992).

In the fashion industry, the argument is that ‘a taller stature offers a commanding presence at runway shows, and so this is ideal for designers who want their work to be noticed.’ Additionally, having one standard size is more cost-effective for designers when creating samples; with their desire for height, the standard size has become tall and slim. Many argue that taller models are more graceful to watch, and keeping the same height for the show keeps the focus on the clothing rather than the individual models.

As a petite model who has worked in the industry for years, controversially, I do understand the height standards for fashion shows. It is more cost-effecting to keep to a singular size for garments, especially during the chaos of a fashion show. It would be nice to see a designer fully embrace body diversity by including both plus size and petite models in their runway shows (as well as disabled models, etc), or choose a standard size, and height more in life with the average woman. However, due to the cost element of this (and the rigid belief a model must look a certain aesthetic), it’s unfortunately unlikely. Nonetheless, with other types of modelling; beauty, hair, lifestyle, commercial, ecom fashion - this standard doesn’t need to be followed. Often it’s less rigid, but height is still preferred and frequently petite models can be completely disregarded, even in beauty photo shoots where just their face is photographed.

Whilst I model full time now and have for the past 3 years, it took me almost 7 years to get to where I am today through determination and working through the no’s. I have been disregarded for my height more times than I can count (which I understand if the outfits require a certain measurement of course). Countless photoshoots I have worn my 7-inch heels to be tall enough, and gladly I do - to show the industry that I and other petite models will bend to the rules to get a foot in the door. To prove them wrong is to prove yourself right, and to open the door for others to follow.

Petite Models = Nepo Baby?

I can hear some of your comments now - ‘but Leyla, there are petite models in the industry’. Yes, thankfully of course there are, myself included. However, the ones we see across mainstream media are not necessarily the ones who fought their way to inclusion, but who were born into a privileged position.

If you search up ‘petite models’ for some inspiration, the majority (if not all) from these lists are synonymous with what Gen Z has coined ‘Nepo Baby’ - aka, coming from a famous/privileged family that boosted your opportunities. These women should be praised for their incredible achievements, whilst recognising nepotism. For example:

  • Lila Moss - petite model often associated with petite representation at 5ft3/4 tall with Marc Jacobs campaigns. Her mother, however, is The Kate Moss.

  • Lily Rose Depp - popular petite model and actress with Chanel campaigns under her belt. 5ft3 - her father is Johnny Depp and her mother is Vanessa Paradis.

  • Devon Aoki - petite model and actress from the early 00s, often mentioned in petite modelling representation. However, even Devon had celebrity connections - her brother is the famous producer Steve Aoki.

  • Irish Law - rising petite model and Dior Beauty ambassador at 5ft5 - her father is actor Jude Law

  • Cara Delevingne - despite standing at 5ft8 tall, is often described as a ‘petite’ model. She is considered a ‘Nepo Baby’ due to her family's connections and background, including her father being a property developer and Sir Nicholas Coleridge, the former Condé Nast International president, being her Godfather.

  • Georgia May Jagger - 5ft7 – recognisable for her Rimmel adverts - her father is Mick Jagger

A few iconic petite models without nepotism have grafted their way through the industry, such as

If you consider mid-height models too, such as Emily Ratajkowski 5ft7 and Charlotte Free 5ft7, they could be included as a breakout. Unfortunately, petite models from non-privileged backgrounds are few and far between - one of the reasons why I fight so hard for petite representation. There are some popular Instagram pages spreading awareness of this issue and supporting fellow petite models, such as @heightrevolution, @whynotpetites, and @notsopetitemovement.

Why not change the height requirement?

While the body positivity movement has made strides in the industry, I still believe that the industry often priorities profiting on women’s insecurities. They want to sell the fantasy - something to admire and dream of becoming, but ultimately must be inaccessible, otherwise everyone would achieve it. In a world where plastic surgery has advanced and Ozempic is popular, what’s the last thing you cannot change? Your height.

My reasons for modelling have been and will always be to have other petite women see themselves in me, to relate to me, and feel beautiful in themselves because of this. I want women to feel represented, to feel included, to feel confident in themselves. I hope to see the industry truly embrace all types of diversity, including petite models, so that every woman can see herself represented.

Leyla Ucar
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